Field observations of nearshore bar formation
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Field observations of nearshore bar formation. / Aagaard, Troels; Kroon, Aart; Greenwood, Brian; Hughes, Michael.
I: Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, Bind 33, Nr. 7, 2008, s. 1021-1032.Publikation: Bidrag til tidsskrift › Tidsskriftartikel › Forskning › fagfællebedømt
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TY - JOUR
T1 - Field observations of nearshore bar formation
AU - Aagaard, Troels
AU - Kroon, Aart
AU - Greenwood, Brian
AU - Hughes, Michael
PY - 2008
Y1 - 2008
N2 - The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.
AB - The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high-energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross-shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross-shore gradients in offshore-directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope.
KW - Faculty of Science
KW - understrøm
KW - nearshore bars
KW - surf zone
KW - morphodynamics
KW - undertow
KW - sediment transport
U2 - 10.1002/esp.1599
DO - 10.1002/esp.1599
M3 - Journal article
VL - 33
SP - 1021
EP - 1032
JO - Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
JF - Earth Surface Processes and Landforms
SN - 0197-9337
IS - 7
ER -
ID: 8804191