Chemoenzymatic indican for light-driven denim dyeing

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  • Gonzalo Nahuel Bidart
  • David Teze
  • Charlotte Uldahl Jansen
  • Eleonora Pasutto
  • Natalia Putkaradze
  • Anna Mamusu Sesay
  • Folmer Fredslund
  • Lo Leggio, Leila
  • Olafur Ögmundarson
  • Sumesh Sukumara
  • Katrine Qvortrup
  • Ditte Hededam Welner

Blue denim, a billion-dollar industry, is currently dyed with indigo in an unsustainable process requiring harsh reducing and alkaline chemicals. Forming indigo directly in the yarn through indican (indoxyl-β-glucoside) is a promising alternative route with mild conditions. Indican eliminates the requirement for reducing agent while still ending as indigo, the only known molecule yielding the unique hue of blue denim. However, a bulk source of indican is missing. Here, we employ enzyme and process engineering guided by techno-economic analyses to develop an economically viable drop-in indican synthesis technology. Rational engineering of PtUGT1, a glycosyltransferase from the indigo plant, alleviated the severe substrate inactivation observed with the wildtype enzyme at the titers needed for bulk production. We further describe a mild, light-driven dyeing process. Finally, we conduct techno-economic, social sustainability, and comparative life-cycle assessments. These indicate that the presented technologies have the potential to significantly reduce environmental impacts from blue denim dyeing with only a modest cost increase.

Original languageEnglish
Article number1489
JournalNature Communications
Volume15
Issue number1
Number of pages11
ISSN2041-1723
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2024

Bibliographical note

Funding Information:
The authors thank Carlotta Chiesa, Carsten Dam-Hansen, Dennis Dan Corell, Andreas Worberg, Nemeh Bani Odeh, and Gossa Garedew Wordofa for CIEL instrument time and technical assistance. This work was funded by the Novo Nordisk Foundation through grants NNF10CC1016517 (to the Novo Nordisk Foundation Center for Biosustainability), NNF20CC0035580 (to the Novo Nordisk Foundation Center for Biosustainability), NNF16OC0019088 (to D.H.W), and Carlsberg Foundation through grant CF18-0631 (to K.Q.).

Funding Information:
The authors thank Carlotta Chiesa, Carsten Dam-Hansen, Dennis Dan Corell, Andreas Worberg, Nemeh Bani Odeh, and Gossa Garedew Wordofa for CIEL instrument time and technical assistance. This work was funded by the Novo Nordisk Foundation through grants NNF10CC1016517 (to the Novo Nordisk Foundation Center for Biosustainability), NNF20CC0035580 (to the Novo Nordisk Foundation Center for Biosustainability), NNF16OC0019088 (to D.H.W), and Carlsberg Foundation through grant CF18-0631 (to K.Q.).

Publisher Copyright:
© The Author(s) 2024.

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